What doubts, its a solid motherboard with great VRM and cooling. What are they saying?
Newegg, reviews only give it 3*, it seams that the people who get good ones love them, while the people who don't get good ones (and there seem to be a fair number of them) have a pretty bad time of it, a lot of 'dead on arrival ' stuff. One guy (on newegg)even says it destroyed two gpu's. Amazon gives it 4* but they seam to be the same two catagories. Now I know there is always going to be the folks that get sent duds, but it's an item that costs $120, it could cost me more if it kills off other parts.
All components can fail. That motherboard has no higher chance than similar boards. It's not something I ever take into account unless they really messed up the design somewhere, but that's detected within days of launch so again, not something I would worry about. If it worries you, find another mini ITX board and go with that. If it's got a AM4 socket it'll run the 2600, and sometimes they list which bios it's running or what gen compatibility it has.
Than I'll probably just go with it, the majority of the reviews are good. As to your previous comment, I'm also a bit supprised at No one else stopping by, exept somewhat irrelevant ones ☺
@LiamMcM1 I've been faithfully stopping by to soak up the knowledge CNK has been imparting. No need for me to comment as I am Jon Snow...I know nothing?
T"I'll probably just go with it, the majority of the reviews are good."
Yeah, but obviously nobody can predict if youll get a component thats doa. Rma policies should be fairly straight forward, especially with amazon.
"I've been faithfully stopping by to soak up the knowledge CNK has been imparting. No need for me to comment as I am Jon Snow...I know nothing?"
You know how it goes. When in doubt, ask Norman. Ahah
To be fair, i dont think its uncommon especially in a communityn like this one to find people who posess the knowledge to do exactly this. But it can be time consuming so i respect those who dont do it for that reason as well. And if people learn from it, then everybody wins.
"I'm also a bit supprised at No one else stopping by"
I tend to lay off such things.
ITX is not something I really follow.
I like my CPU and GPU to stay cool and this is tough with ITX. A cooler GPU can certainly get better performance given how they auto overclock based on temp and power draw. AMD CPUs overclock much like GPUs.
I like things cool and quiet. Cool means big coolers and quiet also means big (lower fans speeds). Cool is relative of course. My 9900K gets about 83C if an app can push > 8 threads really hard. It is the nature very high clocks. Just having a thread count is *not* pushing hard. Not many apps can push CPU threads really hard in a sustained manner. Certainly not Hitfilm. My machine has a 140mm tower CPU cooler (Noctua U14S) and 3 140mm case fans (2 intake(dust filtered), 1 exhaust)(all case fans ramp speed based on some specific system temp). It is worth noting that a 120mm Noctua U12A (not U12S) can cool as well as most 140mm towers. Still you gotta get cool (ambient) air in and exhaust the hot air. Harder to do in a smaller form factor.
@NormanPCN I agree. I'm also a quiet PC guy. I couldn't even stand hearing my HDD so I took it out. Even under full load I cannot hear my PC work. I had to replace the thermal paste on GPU and CPU to achieve that but it was well worth it. Mid tower, R5 1400, OC 3.8 on all 4c, stock cooler. GTX 1660 Super, stock, it's just doing it's thing depending on current temp. Doesn't exceed a core temp of ~65, granted it's also not a high end card, it sits right in the middle of the pack.
Temperatures is also one of the main reason one shouldn't try to come up with a mini ITX solution yourself, it's more than likely going to backfire on you. There's so much more to the design of a case than just 4 metal sides and some holes.
@CNK "I had to replace the thermal paste on GPU..."
I have thought about trying that. My GTX 1080 (EVGA SC2) is I can't remember how many years old so it might be worth a thermal paste replace.
My old machine had a spindle drive. It was one of the quieter 7200rpm drives. Most apps are very sequential access so head seeks are not significant. Well, with the inefficient mess that can happen with Hitfilm I/O use I have heard then beating my HD into submission. Caused me to log Hitfilm I/O wondering what the heck. Wasn't pretty. Textbook case for when to *not* use threads.
I may put a honking large spindle drive into my current machine if I ever decided to rip all my Blu-ray movie discs. But then again, QLC drives are getting cheap(er).
@NormanPCN I totally recommend it. I was previously using a R9 380, and I repasted it about 3 years after purchase, and I saw a significant drop in load and Idle temps. 20 degrees lower at full load in Furmark. The paste had cracked a little but in general, theyre cutting a lot of corners on the pre applied cooler and chip thermal compounds.
The difference it made for the GTX 1660 was it allowed for a quieter fan curve, without sacrificing performance, like undervolting. I dont remember the temperature difference even though i purchased this card like 2 months ago. Was done pretty much immediately out of the box.
The paste i used/got is called Noctua NT-H1. Its non conductive and has performed great so far. No surprise when it comes to Noctua.
My HDD wasnt damaged but the faint clicks were louder than the PC itself, so it was purely removed for noise. It was a 1 TB WD blue.
Thanks guys, esp @CNK for helping me through this, but I actually ended up getting this guy here
I feel kind of bad for leading this on to 30 something comments, and a good bit of research work, but It was a fun and educational experience, so I do thank you anyway and apologize for asking for help and advice, and then not taking it.
Sorry for leading this on 30 something comments, and a good bit of research, but it was a fun and educational experience, so I do thank you again and apologize for first asking for help and advice, and then not taking it. Maybe someone else looking to build their first computer on a budget may find this helpful.
Theres nothing to apologize for. It's fun for me and in the end what matters to me is just guiding you towards making a decision, whether that decision aligns with the stars or not is irrelevant - im not the one who is gonna be using it. Even at that price you are sacrificing some performance but a desktop isnt a laptop so there is a tradeoff. In your case you opted for mobility and im not surprised you went that route.
Yes, I know I will be sacrificing some things (upgrade flexability for one, and less v card), but I think it will work for me, At least I won't have to worry about making it portable, as much as I talked optimisticly about a mobile setup I was a little worried at the thought of the powercables getting bumped and losing unfinished projects.
"but I think it will work for me"
And nothing else matters. You've been given the info you would otherwise miss and you went with it anyways which makes it even more right. Enjoy your new laptop.
"I was a little worried at the thought of the powercables getting bumped and losing unfinished projects."
Assuming PSU, cables are snug and wouldn't go anywhere. The real issue would be accidentally shorting the components and yourself if you weren't planning on using a case to cut corners. With the case + something carrying said case, it would indeed be difficult to make it a painless mobile setup without e.g installing a monitor on/in it.
Want to also...
floraolivia, want what?
TheBenNorris, seems pretty harmless as of yet, but keep an eye skinned here.
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